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The first chapter I ever wrote of my book was about St. Andrews. Many of you may know that it is the birthplace of golf, though many of you may not know that it is also the birthplace of Bessie’s teacher, Laurie Auchterlonie, whose family shop still stands today — just yards from the Old Course’s eighteenth green. In honor of the 150th British Open at St. Andrews (happening now!), I thought I’d share some highlights from our recent trip to the ancient city.

Of St. Andrews, Scotsman James Balfour wrote in 1887, “It may be truly said that…no portion of ground of the same size on the whole surface of the globe has afforded so much innocent enjoyment to many people of all ages from two to eighty-nine.” Nearly 140 years on, his words still ring true. Certainly, it is one thing to write about this hallowed place, with its “sacred memories,” “delightful air,” and “sea-birds flying over head.” But it is quite another to see it — and to feel it — in person.

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Even with Scotland’s “right to roam,” Tim and I were stunned at how open and accessible the course was. We walked the entire thing (twice!).

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The town of St. Andrews is also a treasure. Walking down the main roads, we stumbled across the birthplaces of Old Tom Morris and Jock Hutchinson, the pro at Bessie’s club from 1918 to 1953.

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Our favorite “find” was the site of the old Auchterlonie store. Born and raised in St. Andrews, Laurie Auchterlonie immigrated to the U.S. in 1899, becoming Glen View’s head professional in 1901 before winning the U.S. Open in 1902. His brother, Willie, stayed behind, serving as Honorary Professional at the Royal and Ancient Golf Club until his death in 1963.

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A definite highlight was the visit we paid to the World Golf Museum, located just steps away from the R&A. I couldn’t believe what they had on display!

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Map of the Old Course, signed by Laurie’s brother, Willie Auchterlonie (1872-1963), in 1958.

Golf balls galore! Bessie played with the gutta percha (or the “guttie”) first and then the American-made Haskell ball.

Old Tom Morris, the Father of Golf

The Championship Belt became the permanent property of Young Tommy Morris in 1870 — to this day, he remains the only person to ever win four Opens straight.

The British Open medal, won by Willie Auchterlonie in 1893.

Laurie Auchterlonie’s nephew and namesake. He served as Honorary Professional of the R&A, inheriting the role his father had served for thirty-five years.

The famous Claret Jug!

130 years later, and things are improving…but slowly. In 2015, the R&A voted to end its 250-year, all-male policy, offering honorary membership to seven women, including Annika Sorenstam, Louise Suggs, and Princess Anne. As of 2019, the number of female members in the R&A (with a total membership of 2,000) was unknown, though sources suggest it is not more than 30.